AC Repair Expert.com

Author: admin

  • Using mastic on a ductboard return duct plenum

    Mastic duct sealer can be applied to the non-metallic part of ductboard. Mastic is a high-quality sealant that is often used in HVAC systems to seal joints and seams against air leakage. It is designed to adhere to a wide variety of materials, including the fiberglass and foil-faced surfaces of ductboard.

    Here’s how to apply it:

    1. Clean the Surface: Make sure the surface of the ductboard is clean and dry. Remove any dust, dirt, or grease that could prevent the mastic from adhering properly.

    2. Apply Mastic: Using a brush or gloved hand, apply a generous layer of mastic to the ductboard. Make sure to cover all seams and joints.

    3. Let it Dry: Allow the mastic to dry completely. This could take several hours or even overnight, depending on the thickness of the application and the temperature and humidity of the environment.

    4. Inspect the Seal: Once the mastic has dried, check to make sure the seal is complete. If there are any gaps or cracks, apply another layer of mastic and let it dry.

    Remember, always follow the manufacturer’s instructions when using mastic or any other sealant.

    you can apply the mastic to both the 2″ side of the ductboard and the side of the furnace before joining them together. However, you need to make sure it’s applied carefully and evenly to get a good seal.

    Here’s a simple step-by-step guide:

    1. Clean the Surfaces: Make sure both surfaces (the ductboard and the furnace) are clean and free of dust, dirt or grease.

    2. Apply the Mastic: Use a brush to apply a thick, even layer of mastic on both surfaces. Make sure you cover the entire surface area that will be joined.

    3. Join the Surfaces: Press the ductboard against the furnace firmly. This ensures that the mastic spreads out evenly and fills any gaps or irregularities between the two surfaces.

    4. Secure the Joint: If necessary, you can use duct tape or mechanical fasteners to hold the ductboard in place while the mastic dries. Do not rely on these for the seal – they just provide extra support.

    5. Let it Dry: Leave the mastic to dry completely. This can take several hours or even overnight, depending on the conditions.

    6. Check the Seal: Once the mastic is dry, check the seal. If there are any gaps or cracks, apply another layer of mastic.

    Remember, always follow the manufacturer’s instructions when using mastic. And keep in mind that mastic should not be used in areas where it will be exposed to high heat, such as near the heat exchanger or flue pipe of a furnace. 

    While mastic is an excellent sealing material, it’s not typically used as a structural component. The primary function of a duct collar is to provide a secure, mechanical connection between the duct and the furnace, while the mastic provides an airtight seal.

    Without a duct collar, the mastic alone may not be sufficient to hold the duct in place and withstand the pressure differences that occur during the operation of the HVAC system, especially in the long term.

    So while you might be able to get away without using a duct collar in the short term, it is highly recommended to use one for a long-lasting and secure connection. After the collar is installed, mastic can then be applied around the connection to ensure an airtight seal.

  • Installing 2 float switches and auto water shutoff

    Installing two float shutoffs to prevent water damage involves setting up a system that automatically cuts off the water supply when the water level reaches a certain point. This setup typically involves connecting the float switches in series to ensure that if either float detects high water levels, the water supply will be shut off. Here’s a detailed process for installing and wiring two float shutoffs:

    Materials Needed:

    – Two float switches (typically with normally open (NO) contacts)

    – Water shutoff valve with a control board

    – Appropriate wire (usually 18-22 AWG)

    – Wire connectors or terminal blocks

    – Screwdriver, wire stripper, and other basic tools

    – Mounting hardware for the floats and control board

    Step-by-Step Installation Process:

    # 1. Choose the Installation Location:

    – Identify the area where water damage is most likely to occur (e.g., near a sump pump, under a sink, or in a basement).

    – Determine the appropriate height for the float switches. The first float should be set at a lower level to act as an early warning, and the second float should be set at a higher level as a backup.

    # 2. Mount the Float Switches:

    – Secure the first float switch at the lower level using the provided mounting hardware. Ensure it is firmly attached and will not move when the water level rises.

    – Mount the second float switch at the higher level, following the same process.

    # 3. Prepare the Wiring:

    – Use wire that is suitable for the environment (e.g., water-resistant if necessary).

    – Cut the wire to the appropriate length to connect the floats to the control board and the control board to the shutoff valve.

    # 4. Connect the Float Switches in Series:

    – Each float switch typically has three wires: a common (C), a normally open (NO), and a normally closed (NC). For this setup, you will use the common (C) and normally open (NO) wires.

    – First Float Switch:

    – Connect the common (C) wire of the first float switch to the power supply (usually a 24V AC or DC source).

    – Connect the normally open (NO) wire of the first float switch to the common (C) wire of the second float switch.

    – Second Float Switch:

    – Connect the normally open (NO) wire of the second float switch to the control board.

    # 5. Wire Color Scheme:

    – Common (C) Wire: Typically black or white.

    – Normally Open (NO) Wire: Typically red or blue.

    – Example Wiring:

    – Connect the black wire (C) from the power supply to the black wire (C) of the first float switch.

    – Connect the red wire (NO) from the first float switch to the black wire (C) of the second float switch.

    – Connect the red wire (NO) from the second float switch to the control board.

    # 6. Connect the Control Board to the Shutoff Valve:

    – Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for connecting the control board to the shutoff valve. Typically, the control board will have a terminal labeled for the float switch input.

    – Connect the wire from the second float switch’s NO terminal to the appropriate terminal on the control board.

    – Connect the control board to the shutoff valve according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

    # 7. Test the System:

    – Turn on the power supply and test the system by manually raising the float switches to simulate high water levels.

    – Ensure that the shutoff valve closes when either float switch is activated.

    – Check all connections to ensure they are secure and that there are no loose wires.

    # 8. Finalize Installation:

    – Secure all wiring with wire ties or conduit to prevent damage or accidental disconnection.

    – Ensure the control board and shutoff valve are properly mounted and accessible for future maintenance.

    Wiring Diagram:

    Code :

     Copy code

    
Power Supply (24V AC/DC)
Black (C)  v
First Float Switch
Red (NO)  v
Second Float Switch
Red (NO)  v
Control Board
(To Shutoff Valve)  v
Shutoff Valve

    Additional Considerations:

    – Regular Maintenance: Periodically check the float switches and control board to ensure they are functioning correctly.

    – Backup Power: Consider installing a battery backup for the system to ensure it operates during power outages.

    – Professional Installation: If you are unsure about any part of the installation, consider hiring a professional plumber or electrician.

  • Smart thermostat needs the C wire, that blue wire that is often not connected on the other end at your furnace. It happened to me

    Your new smart thermostat requires it. You are looking to use an existing unused wire (the blue wire) to provide a common (C) wire connection for your new smart thermostat. Here is a professional step-by-step process to ensure you connect the wires correctly and safely:

    Step-by-Step Process for Connecting the C Wire

    1. Turn Off Power:
    • Before starting any work, turn off the power to your HVAC system at the circuit breaker. Verify that the system is off by attempting to turn on the furnace and air conditioner to ensure they do not operate.
    1. Identify the Wires at the Furnace:
    • At the furnace control board, you mentioned that one of your AC wires is connected to the C terminal. Confirm this connection.
    • You also mentioned that the other AC wires are connected to the Y terminal on the control board. Ensure these connections are secure and correctly identified.
    1. Locate the Unused Blue Wire:
    • Find the blue wire from your thermostat cable at the furnace. You mentioned it is currently terminated and unused.
    1. Connect the Blue Wire to the C Terminal at the Furnace:
    • Connect the blue wire to the C terminal on the furnace control board. Ensure the connection is secure and properly tightened.
    1. Identify the Wires at the Thermostat:
    • At the thermostat location, identify the existing wires and their connections. You mentioned that one of the AC wires is connected to the C terminal on the thermostat.
    1. Connect the Blue Wire to the C Terminal at the Thermostat:
    • Connect the other end of the blue wire to the C terminal on your new smart thermostat. Ensure the connection is secure and properly tightened.
    1. Verify All Connections:
    • Double-check all connections at both the furnace and the thermostat to ensure they are correct and secure.
    1. Turn On Power and Test:
    • Restore power to your HVAC system at the circuit breaker.
    • Turn on your new smart thermostat and follow its setup instructions. Verify that the thermostat is functioning correctly and that the HVAC system responds as expected.

    Additional Considerations

    • Check Compatibility: Ensure your new smart thermostat is compatible with your HVAC system. Refer to the thermostat’s manual for specific wiring requirements.
    • Safety: Always follow safety guidelines when working with electrical systems. If you are unsure about any part of the process, consider hiring a professional electrician or HVAC technician.
    • Documentation: Keep a record of your wiring configuration for future reference or in case you need to troubleshoot any issues.

    By following these steps, you should be able to successfully connect the C wire using the existing blue wire, ensuring your new smart thermostat functions properly.

  • Gable fans (vs attic fans) install from inside the attic.

    Installing an attic fan entirely from inside the attic can be challenging because most attic fans require some external work, such as installing flashing to ensure a watertight seal. However, there are some gable-mounted attic fans that can be installed entirely from inside the attic, provided you have access to the gable wall from inside. Here are a few options with links to product information and Amazon listings:

    1. QuietCool QC ES-1500 Gable Mount Attic Fan

    – Model: QuietCool QC ES-1500

    – CFM: 1488 CFM

    – Features: Energy-efficient, quiet operation, easy installation.

    – Why It’s Suitable for Inside Installation: This fan is designed for gable mount installation, which can often be done entirely from inside the attic if you have access to the gable wall.

    – Product Link: [QuietCool QC ES-1500 on Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/QuietCool-QC-ES-1500-Gable-Mount/dp/B0043M4Q8K)

    2. Lasko 36-Inch Electrically Reversible Window Fan

    – Model: Lasko 36-Inch Window Fan

    – CFM: Not specified, but suitable for smaller attics or rooms.

    – Features: Reversible airflow, adjustable thermostat, easy to install.

    – Why It’s Suitable for Inside Installation: While typically used for windows, this fan can be adapted for gable mount installation from inside the attic if you have a suitable opening.

    – Product Link: [Lasko 36-Inch Window Fan on Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/Lasko-36-Inch-Electrically-Reversible-Window/dp/B000050B2E)

    3. Air Vent Gable-Mount Power Attic Ventilator

    – Model: Air Vent Gable-Mount Power Attic Ventilator

    – CFM: 1620 CFM

    – Features: Thermostat controlled, durable construction, easy installation.

    – Why It’s Suitable for Inside Installation: Designed for gable mount, this fan can be installed from inside the attic if you have access to the gable wall.

    – Product Link: [Air Vent Gable-Mount Power Attic Ventilator on Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/Air-Vent-Gable-Mount-Power-Ventilator/dp/B000BQW68C)

    Installation Tips for Gable-Mount Fans from Inside the Attic:

    1. Access the Gable Wall: Ensure you have access to the gable wall from inside the attic. This might involve removing some insulation or other obstructions.

    2. Cut the Opening: From inside the attic, cut an opening in the gable wall according to the fan’s specifications. Make sure the opening is the correct size and shape.

    3. Mount the Fan: Secure the fan to the gable wall using the provided brackets and screws. Ensure the fan is level and securely fastened.

    4. Connect Wiring: If the fan is electric, connect the wiring according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Ensure all connections are secure and meet local electrical codes.

    5. Seal the Edges: Use caulk or weatherstripping to seal around the edges of the fan to prevent air leaks.

    6. Test the Fan: Once installed, turn on the fan to ensure it is working correctly.

    Additional Considerations:

    – Check Local Building Codes: Before starting, check local building codes and regulations to ensure compliance.

    – Professional Help: If you are unsure about any part of the installation, consider hiring a professional to ensure it is done correctly and safely.

    These gable-mounted fans can be installed entirely from inside the attic, provided you have access to the gable wall. Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions and take necessary safety precautions during installation.

  • Best SOLAR attic fans run and run for free

    When considering the most effective solar-powered attic ventilation fans, several factors come into play, including CFM (Cubic Feet per Minute) rating, durability, ease of installation, and overall performance. Here are some of the top-rated and most effective solar-powered attic ventilation fans available on the market, along with links to product information and Amazon listings:

    1. Remington Solar Attic Fan

    • Model: Remington Solar Attic Fan
    • CFM: Up to 1400 CFM
    • Features: Adjustable solar panel, high-efficiency brushless motor, weather-resistant construction.
    • Why It’s Effective: The high CFM rating and adjustable solar panel make it highly effective for various attic sizes. The brushless motor ensures long-lasting performance.
    • Product Link: Remington Solar Attic Fan on Amazon

    2. Master Flow 1200 CFM Solar Powered Roof Mount Attic Exhaust Fan

    • Model: Master Flow ERV12
    • CFM: 1200 CFM
    • Features: 28-watt solar panel, adjustable thermostat, durable construction.
    • Why It’s Effective: The adjustable thermostat allows for customized ventilation, and the 28-watt solar panel ensures strong performance even on cloudy days.
    • Product Link: Master Flow ERV12 on Amazon

    3. Natural Light Solar Attic Fan

    • Model: Natural Light SA-1
    • CFM: Up to 1000 CFM
    • Features: 25-watt solar panel, adjustable thermostat, weather-resistant housing.
    • Why It’s Effective: Known for its quiet operation and reliable performance, this fan is suitable for medium-sized attics and offers good value for money.
    • Product Link: Natural Light SA-1 on Amazon

    4. Eco-Worthy Solar Powered Attic Fan

    • Model: Eco-Worthy 25W
    • CFM: Up to 1000 CFM
    • Features: 25-watt solar panel, adjustable thermostat, durable aluminum housing.
    • Why It’s Effective: The aluminum housing adds durability, and the adjustable thermostat helps maintain optimal attic temperatures.
    • Product Link: Eco-Worthy 25W on Amazon

    5. Solar Royal SR1800

    • Model: Solar Royal SR1800
    • CFM: 1800 CFM
    • Features: 30-watt solar panel, high-efficiency motor, adjustable thermostat.
    • Why It’s Effective: With the highest CFM rating on this list, the SR1800 is ideal for large attics and offers excellent ventilation performance.
    • Product Link: Solar Royal SR1800 on Amazon

    Key Considerations for Effectiveness:

    • CFM Rating: Higher CFM ratings indicate better airflow, which is crucial for effective ventilation.
    • Solar Panel Wattage: A higher wattage solar panel can generate more power, ensuring the fan operates efficiently even in less-than-ideal sunlight conditions.
    • Adjustable Thermostat: Allows the fan to turn on and off based on attic temperature, optimizing energy use and ventilation.
    • Durability and Build Quality: Fans with weather-resistant and durable materials will last longer and perform better over time.
    • Installation and Maintenance: Ease of installation and low maintenance requirements can contribute to the overall effectiveness of the fan.

    When choosing the most effective solar-powered attic ventilation fan, consider the size of your attic, your local climate, and your specific ventilation needs. The models listed above are highly regarded for their performance and reliability, making them excellent choices for improving attic ventilation.

    The effectiveness of an attic fan in cooling a house can vary based on several factors, including the size of the house, the climate, the type of fan, and the insulation of the attic. However, here are some general insights on how much cooler a house can become with an attic fan running:

    Temperature Reduction

    – Attic Temperature: An attic fan can significantly reduce the temperature in the attic itself. On a hot day, the attic temperature can be reduced by 30 to 50 degrees Fahrenheit (17 to 28 degrees Celsius) compared to not having a fan.

    – House Temperature: The impact on the overall house temperature is less dramatic but still noticeable. You can expect a reduction in the living space temperature by about 5 to 15 degrees Fahrenheit (3 to 8 degrees Celsius). This reduction depends on how well the house is insulated and how much heat is being transferred from the attic to the living areas.

    Factors Affecting Cooling Efficiency

    1. Insulation: A well-insulated attic will prevent a significant amount of heat from transferring to the living spaces below. An attic fan can help keep the attic cooler, which in turn helps maintain the effectiveness of the insulation.

    2. Ventilation: Proper ventilation is crucial. An attic fan works best when there are sufficient intake vents (like soffit vents) to allow cooler air to enter the attic as the hot air is expelled.

    3. Fan Size and CFM: The size of the fan and its CFM (Cubic Feet per Minute) rating will determine how much air it can move. A higher CFM rating generally means more effective cooling.

    4. Climate: In regions with high humidity, the effectiveness of an attic fan might be reduced because the air being pulled into the attic may already be warm and moist.

    5. Roof Color and Material: Darker roofs absorb more heat, making the attic hotter. An attic fan can help mitigate this, but the initial temperature difference will be greater.

    Additional Benefits

    – Energy Savings: By reducing the temperature in the attic, an attic fan can help lower the workload on your air conditioning system, potentially leading to energy savings.

    – Moisture Control: Attic fans can also help reduce moisture buildup in the attic, which can prevent mold and mildew growth.

    Practical Example

    If your attic temperature is around 120°F (49°C) on a hot day without a fan, installing an attic fan could bring it down to around 80-90°F (27-32°C). This reduction in attic temperature can help keep the living areas cooler, potentially reducing the indoor temperature from 85°F (29°C) to around 75-80°F (24-27°C), depending on the factors mentioned above.

    In summary, while an attic fan won’t make your house as cool as air conditioning, it can significantly reduce the temperature in the attic and contribute to a cooler and more comfortable living environment.